Roofing installation is a messy business. Please make sure you have tarps to catch debris and lay them down before you start work.
You will need a tall ladder to reach the roof, a tape measure and calculator to record precise measurements, and a diagram of the roof to break it down into smaller sections. Visit https://www.corpuschristiroofingco.com/ to learn more.
A roof inspection should take place before a roofing job starts. A true Roofer will walk the entire roof to inspect its structure and look for signs of damage and inadequacy in ventilation. He or she will also check that the craftsmanship is up to code. Unfortunately, if your home has been recently re-shingled it may not be in the best condition to pass an inspection due to present moss, mildew and broken shingles that could indicate the roof was rushed and not properly fitted.
In addition to examining the condition of the shingles, your contractor will inspect the flashing (the thin metal that lines penetrations like skylights, chimneys and vent pipes) for any rust or cracking. They will also look at the soffit and fascia boards, which protect the underside of the roof overhangs, for rot, warping and other damage. They will also check the gutters and downspouts to make sure that they are not blocked and that they are free of obstructions.
Finally, the roofer will look at the ventilation in the attic to make sure that it is functioning as it should to avoid heat and moisture build up that can shorten a roof’s life span.
It is a good idea to have any outdoor furniture or other items moved out of the way before starting work on a roof as the installation can cause vibrations that might move items inside the house. A professional roofing contractor will know how to mitigate this risk and will be able to advise you on the best way to safeguard your belongings. However, you should always be aware that a roofing job can create dust and debris that could potentially be tracked into areas of your home.
Roofing underlayment is installed on the roof deck prior to the installation of other roofing materials. It protects the roof structure and helps prevent water infiltration that can lead to structural damage and rot. It also serves as a barrier that keeps tar from the shingles from damaging the roof deck.
Most professional roofers use synthetic underlayment. It features a synthetic base that is saturated with asphalt to make it extra waterproof. It also has a coarse woven material to provide slip resistance. It is durable, resistant to UV rays and mold, and allows the roof to breathe.
It is usually a bit more expensive than felt underlayment, but it pays off in the long run. It also requires fewer fasteners, which reduces the chances of leaks and corrosion. Synthetic underlayment is also more flexible and easy to install. It is ideal for flat roofs, valleys, and penetrations, where leaks can occur.
The type of underlayment you choose depends on the roof covering and your jurisdictional requirements. It is important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when installing underlayment. You should always check for proper head and side laps, as well as a moisture barrier.
Felt underlayment is more affordable than synthetic underlayment, but it is not as effective at protecting the roof. It is also susceptible to tear during installation, which can compromise its ability to act as a secondary barrier against water. Felt underlayment also becomes susceptible to mildew and mold if it gets wet, and it has a limited lifespan when exposed to sunlight. Synthetic underlayment, on the other hand, is more durable and can be used for extended periods of time. It is also more water-resistant than felt underlayment and can withstand high winds.
Shingles protect the roof from weathering, and they also add beauty. It’s important that the right pattern is followed when laying them. Most professional roofers use a basic shingle layout, starting with the eave, and working toward the ridges.
The first row of shingles — often called the starter course or strip — should overhang the drip edge by about a half-inch. This is to prevent water from getting under the shingles in the row below. The first full course of shingles will cover the starter course and fill in gaps left by cutouts and joints. This is where a roofing hatchet and/or a roof nailer with adjustable guides come in handy.
For the rest of the shingles, follow the shingle manufacturer’s instructions to align the rows and nail them. The shingle manufacturer may recommend using 4 or 6 nails per shingle, depending on the region and wind resistance.
Most of the shingles will be nailed to the roof with a hammer, but in areas that get a lot of rain and snow, a power shingle nailer can make the job much faster. To avoid nail heads poking out through the shingle, it is recommended that you apply a self-adhesive waterproof underlayment (also called an ice barrier), which adheres tightly to the bare sheathing and seals around the nails driven through it. It is available at roofing supply companies and home centers.
It takes about three bundles of shingles to cover 100 square feet (9.29 square meters). The area of your roof will be measured to determine how many bundles to buy. If you’re buying asphalt shingles, they are sold by the square and typically come tied together in bundles of 50 or 100.
A properly ventilated roof extends the life of your shingles, reduces maintenance costs and improves the indoor environment. It helps regulate temperature and expel excess heat in warmer months, as well as prevent moisture from leaking into living spaces, which can breed molds and fungus that require expensive professional cleanup. It is also required by many building codes.
Ventilation works on the simple principle that warm air rises. In summer, the sun heats air in the attic; a vented roof allows that hot air to escape so cool air can enter. In winter, the heat from your home warms attic air; a vented roof allows that warm air to escape as well. Ventilation is essential in all climates, whether it’s to protect the shingles from condensation or to ease the load on your air conditioning system.
Roofing ventilation comes in many different forms, but they all follow the same basic principle. There are passive vents that rely on natural convection to work, such as gable end vents or turtle vents (also called box vents). Another popular option is ridge vents with plastic flaps. A more recent development is the turbine vent, which has non-motorized turbines that spin when air moves through them; this allows the attic to recirculate 10 or 12 times an hour.
The roofer will mark spots for the vents, which are usually spaced about 6 feet apart along the attic floor. They may install a ridge vent in sections, or they might use a shingle-over style that’s one continuous piece of aluminum or vinyl. They will then cut out the sheathing at those spots, then nail a ridge vent into place at each location. They will secure and weatherproof the vent according to manufacturer instructions, which may include caulking or putting a shingle cap on top of each ridge vent.
Soffit and Fascia
A soffit is found tucked under the fascia and is an essential part of the roofline to help with ventilation, weather protection and to prevent water damage around your home. It is a good idea to address any issues with the soffit and fascia as soon as possible to avoid problems that can become more severe over time.
Soffits are made from wood, fiber cement or aluminum and can be installed at the same time as your roof or gutters. You can also choose to have them painted or stained, depending on the look you want for your home. Wood or fiber cement soffits need to be painted regularly to protect them from moisture and insects, while aluminum is maintenance-free.
Fascia boards are normally made from a timber or wood, but can also be manufactured from PVC or aluminium. They can be painted or stained, and some are available in a variety of colours to match your home, or even provide a more modern look to your property. Wooden fascias will need to be regularly sanded and treated, while uPVC is highly durable against rotting or warping and is resistant to moisture.
A properly installed fascia board will extend to the edge of your roof rafters. If it does not, you can expect to see moss growth, wood rot and damp problems on the underside of your home. The eaves can also be prone to wasp nests, so it is important to install a fascia that has a smooth surface to discourage them from landing and penetrating the boards. The best way to secure a fascia board is to use 2-inch long stainless steel nails that are pre-drilled with holes aligned every third groove or section of the soffit.